Changer Tuning Nuts on all Pull Guitars - Tune once and forget or tweak every time you play?

[Simon Andrews]

Like the title says.

Just curious...

Wondering if on a pro level model guitar, that is set up to factory spec, if once the changer pulls are in tune using the Nylon nuts, or whatever equivalent is there, that the changes will remain in tune, without any further tweaks based on the mechanics of the steel. (after string stretch etc.)

I end up tweaking mine all the time, I find... Not just on a new set of strings. My routine was to tune everything before I played the guitar every time I sat down. I find my Sierra needs it more than my MSA? Over time I have just left the changer nuts alone on the MSA for the most part unless some changes have gone out.

Wondering on your experience? I ask because I came across an Emmons push pull video on Facebook and he said, all the changes are in tune. Almost like once they are in tune with that gauge of strings there will be no drift as long as the open strings are in tune - not my experience. Is this a push pull thing vs an all pull thing?

Is retuning the changer tuning pulls often a symptom of something up in the drivetrain?

Thanks All!

[Richard Sinkler]

Tune every time. As strings get older and stretched, the tuning can drift.

[Dennis Montgomery]

Before my Mullen G2, I had a mid 80's MCI SD10 for a few months and it was tune and tweak before every practice session. Once I got my G2, it's been tune once and forget (or at least forget unless it's been a few weeks since my last playing session - and even then the tweaks are minimal). Same with the Fender 400 I owned for a few years, tune once and forget

[Nathan Pocock]

Nah I just tune the peghead. If I was playing out I’d check it but for practicing I just tune up the heads and go, and if something sounds out I will take a look at it. My guitars seem pretty stable.

[Dave Grafe]

A good guitar with good strings should not require much fussing with the changer end unless there is a change of strings or season. I do a fine tuning before or even during a recording session, but for live shows my poor bar technique is of more concern than any tuning drift in the guitar so I generally tune at the headstock and we're good to go.

[Oliver Samland]

Simon, another thing to consider is some steels are more sensitive to temperature changes then others. If my Excel (being made out of aluminum for the most part) was exposed to lower temperature (like in a non-heated music room during nighttime, or sitting in the trunk of a car on the way to a rehearsal or gig in winter), my routine is to first let it acclimate after coming in from the cold and - most important - playing it for a couple minutes BEFORE tuning it. The warmth of my body usually stabilizes the tuning and as a result more often than not tuning the open strings is all the guitar needs. Whenever I tuned the changer while the steel was still too cold, I went (nylon) nuts chasing the tail, because what I really did was detune a guitar that was just not sufficiently acclimated.

[Dave Grafe]

Oliver makes a very good point, temperature changes can mess with tuning, although not so much with pedal and lever changes as the overall tuning. My Zums have always drifted a bit with temperature change but have stayed in tune with themselves much better than the push-pull guitars I have owned.

[Bobby D. Jones]

Guitar should first get to the surrounding area Temperature.
When setting down at the guitar, Rub the bar and hand up and down strings, Place your right hand playing position the strings. While moving bar hand and warming strings, Push every pedal, Engage every knee lever, Two or three times. Then turn tuner on and check tuning.

Strings have a happy neutral zone, When strings are warmed up, Strings raised and lowered recently, They are in the neutral zone, The neutral zone/Open strings on the guitar.

If the strings are not in the neutral position. And they are tuned. After a few minutes of playing, Warming of string, Raising and lowering strings, The strings reach neutral position. And then the guitar is out of tune. And have to be tuned again.
Temperature, Heat and flexing can have a lot of effect on a 24" small diameter steel string. Then the guitar becomes part of stable tuning.

[David Wisson]

Hi Simon I adjust the nylon nuts very rarely. My guitar is permanently set up in the music room. I
always like it to be in tune. I have a korg flip style chromatic tuner that comes out once a year. Tweak anything else by ear. As regards an Emmons push pull they tend to drift as the changer adjuster screws and Ali wear. I used tiny lock nuts on mine held them with long nose pliers when adjusting. Worked well. Dave

[Bobby Hearn]

On my pushpulls, I rarely have to tweek changer once the strings are broke in, but every all pull I’ve ever owned had to be adjusted regularly. The upside with all pulls is there are fewer problems requiring undercarriage adjustments.